Days 43 to 46. 19th to 22nd September 2018

See, we haven’t forgotten this journal. It’s just that life gets in the way a lot these days.

So you’ll recall we left off at the entrance to Shenandoah National Park and what was to become the most memorable (riding) part of this amazing USA adventure.

So before I describe what the next 4 days held in store, we thought some explanation might be in order.

I’ll mix it in with some of the photos we took over these 4 amazing days riding.

Somewhere on the Blue Ridge Parkway

Janelle and I have pondered for some time now how to adequately describe why we do these things.  What makes us want to travel around the world to spend months living on a motorcycle. What do we get out of it? Setting up the tent each (ok most) nights, all the packing up and pointing them off into the unknown. Searching for nutritious food (it’s vital we eat well and in USA that’s not an easy task believe me).  Taking everything the weather can throw at us. And doing it again, day after day.  Ride, eat, sleep, repeat… with a fair amount of problem solving thrown in.  How can that be a holiday? 

Well let me assure you we would do it forever if we could.

The difficulty in trying to explain is that we are attempting to describe a concept that, we have realised, is actually beyond the understanding of those that do not ride. And even to many who do.  Those who only use their bikes to commute, the Sunday afternoon 25km pub to pub cruisers, boy racers comparing tyre wear and chicken strips after 20 minutes of go-to-jail insanity. So many of them look at us in bewilderment, as I suppose we do to them.  And so many times we are seen with a combination of awe and confusion. Especially Janelle.  As one observer at a gas station in Colorado commented “Damn girl, are you riding that huge thing?”.

Well actually, yes she was, yes she will again and yes she lives for it. We both do.

A quick fuel stop and then back to the Parkway.

So if I may have your indulgence for 5 minutes or so, I shall attempt to explain why.

 Any rider in the history of motorcycles will tell you it’s all about the freedom.  But you know, that’s really a cop out.  That simple explanation might have worked in the 1970, in movies like Stone and Easy Rider, but it just doesn’t cut it these days.  Most of us can enjoy pretty much have whatever freedom we choose.  So, yes it is that, of course, but so very much more. 

They call this Otter Creek. Of course they do.

Is it the “bad boy (or girl)” image?  A rebel with a Suzuki? No one can tell me what to do! 

Well, yes, I suppose there is a bit of that too.  Choosing to ride a motorcycle is a kind of rebellious thing to do.  And it’s not an easy road.  As any rider of any experience level will tell you about their first few months, it is a scary and nervous time.  The enjoyment takes quite some time to kick in.  Before that there’s weeks, even months of self doubt, tears, frustration and usually some very scary moments.

Is it about reducing the cost of transport?

Well actually probably not.  While bikes are cheaper to run than cars, we have 2 of them. We do get great fuel consumption, but you have to double that, and rego, and insurance. It’s not really cheaper, at least not the way we choose to do it.  And in Canberra at least it is very hard to get along with just a bike.  Having a car as well makes life work so much better. Running 2 vehicles is always more expensive than 1.

Is it about mastery of a machine? The satisfaction of mastering a skill set?

Yes, absolutely it is.  And I think this is what takes it above and beyond all those other points.  It’s the personal challenge. The satisfaction of learning a complicated skill and executing it well, is a very addictive thing.  It’s the same for musicians and sportsmen/women.  It takes a lot of work and practice.  Now of course, I don’t say that learning to drive a car is not hard too, but it really is so much easier than a motorcycle. Honestly, go and ask any rider.  I absolutely guarantee they’ll tell you the skill and concentration levels needed to ride is so very much more and so with that is the satisfaction of doing it well.  It’s true… Really.

Another shot of Otter Creek

Why is it that rain, cold, close calls, minimal luggage, bugs, dirt, discomfort and inconvenience, and of course – ‘helmet hair’ doesn’t stop us wanting to get back on and ride every day, and missing it badly when we can’t? Well, I’m not sure that I can explain that in any way that will make sense if you don’t ride yourself.  But if you want, put your hand up and we will take you out with us one day so you can experience it for yourself. 

As a side comment to that is also the reasons for a daily motorcycle commute, even in the depths of a Canberra winter. Turning a 45 minute journey (one way) into a 20 minute one thanks to being able to use bus lanes and filtering is pretty good. Having free parking instead of $12 a day ($24 if we both took separate cars) is certainly an incentive.

But you know… above all that it’s just really good fun. It really is. We really enjoy our little ride to work and home. Ok, not enough to do it if we don’t have to, but you know what I mean.

And so, given all that, I hope you can gain an understanding of why we do this.   Because once you get a handle on that, you’ll understand how every once in a while when you go motorcycle adventuring you stumble upon a unexpected little piece of heaven. Somewhere that just takes everything and lifts it to a whole new level. That takes all the individual reasons we do it, and wraps them up in one great big road of motorcycling perfection.

For example… may I introduce the incredible Blue Ridge Parkway. 

Starting in West Virginia an hour or so west of Washington DC, the North Entrance of the Shenandoah National Park is the 160 km ‘preliminary’ road called Skyline Drive. The start is pretty much the same as every other National Park entrance. But very quickly the road crests the climb and starts to wind its way along the top of the northern end of the Great Smokey Mountains.  At times the drop is to the left, at times to the right and every now and then off both sides leaving you riding on top of the world.  For those in South East Australia imagine the Cann River Road, or the Kings Highway between Clyde Mountain and Nelligen, but for 160 kms on top of a mountain range.  But then most importantly, remove all commercial vehicles (because they’re actually banned) and also remove almost all caravans, RV’s and the like, cause it’s just no fun for them.  Scatter in some campgrounds and occasional coffee stops and you’re starting to get the idea.

Skyline Drive to the start of the Parkway. At the bottom.
We always dined well when camping out. Notice the red wine in a tetra pack!

But wait, there’s more!  Oh there is so much more. After a full days riding on Skyline Drive it immediately gives way to the start of the Blue Ridge Parkway.  Quite literally a repeat of the above, but this time over 750 kms (469 miles).  I’m not actually sure it gets any better than this. Over 900 combined kms, of fantastic, beautiful, peaceful riding along the top of one of the prettiest mountain ranges in USA. 

We camped at Loft Mountain on the first night and Rocky Knob on the second..

We spent 4 days on these 2 roads, well 1 road really, just 2 names. Camping each night, dropping off to the surrounding real world reality once in a while for fuel and lunch, but never for too long. 

We were amazed at the lack of traffic, the incredible quality of road surface, the friendliness of everyone we met and the never ending twists, turns, tunnels and breath taking views that just kept unfolding before us.

The campground at Linville Falls for our third night.

But don’t take my word for it.  Here’s a compilation video of our 4 days on Skyline Drive and The Blue Ridge Parkway.

Four days compressed into 10 minutes. An impossible task.
With warning signs like this, you know it’s got to be good!
And our favourite photo. Sunset at Rocky Knob, our second nights hideaway.